AR-15 Barrel Install The CORRECT Way!



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This is the correct way to install an AR-15 barrel and have the correct torque applied to the barrel nut. Also, the February Man Can Swag giveaway drawing is here as well. If you enjoyed this video please give me a like and be sure to subscribe for future channel updates as I plan to put up a new video every week or two. I’m B.C. and welcome to my channel Deuce and Guns!
List of items used in this video.
#1. AR-15 VISE BLOCK/ Gas Tube Locator: WHEELER ENGINEERING DELTA SERIES AR-15 UPPER VISE BLOCK CLAMP. FYI – This vise block requires a minimum 3 inch jaw capacity.
#2. Bench Vise: Wilton
#3. AR-15 Upper Receiver: Palmetto State Armory Stripped blemished AR-15 Upper Receiver
#4. AR-15 upper build kit: Palmetto State Armory Upper Build Kit.
#5. Torque Wrench: Husky (Home Depot Brand)
#6. Grease: Supertech Moly-Lithium (Walmart Brand)
#7. Barrel Nut Wrench: Surplus USGI model number 11010033
#8. Barrel: Random Ebay auction of unmarked overrun of barrels from major manufacture.

32 thoughts on “AR-15 Barrel Install The CORRECT Way!”

  1. The torque depends on the friction in the threads. Recomended torque in allways with dry and clean threads, if you are using grease(great idea), the torque sholud be reduced with 30-40 %, since friction are lower and the same torque results in a higher clamping force.

  2. how do you fix a left to right scope mount (picattiny rail) on a flat top ar 15 ? I'am 4-5 feet left of target at 185 yards. 125 grain 300 blackout. 2-7 Redfield maxed out. thanks

  3. In AIT we were taught that all crowsfeet were to be torqued inline with the wrench as the specs were based on the distance from the center of the wrench drive to the center of the fastner.

  4. Fine video. Your comments on lube are right on, but I have a question: I use what I call 'bicycle' grease cuz it's sold for same–it is lithium grease in a small tube [similar to your NeverSeez] and fits my gun box jes' fine. Use it on choke tubes and muzzle devices.

    My vise fixture is similar to yours, but no 'wire'. Any reason a rifle-length tube with a superglued handle won't work? thxnregards mw

  5. I installed a Midwest Industries T-series extended rifle length free float firearm a few years back on a Bushmaster X-15. I went ahead and ordered the receiver honing bar, which also cleans up the barrel nut threads, taking off about. 001" to ensure the barrel was concentric to the bore. A little bit of lapping compound and all high spots in the receiver (machine tool marks, burrs, etc) were cleaned up and the barrel was perfectly straight. I used lithium grease, per mil-spec. Checked headspace and was good to go.

    I just bought a 1:7 twist vs. the stock 1:9. This should allow better groups with heavier, longer bullets. I already checked headspace on the barrel pre-installation, but you can bet I'll check again after installing. This is critical. I've read horror stories of catastrophic failures due to incorrect headspace in new barrels. Always…ALWAYS!…check your headspace!!!

  6. Author is incorrect about adjusting for the length of the barrel nut tool at the end of the torque wrench. It is true that torque equals force times distance. But in this case the torque generated at the torque wrench shaft is set to a known maximum amount; for example 30 foot pounds. The torque in the barrel nut must be exactly the same (it's force times distance) otherwise one or the other would move.

  7. In case somebody missed it: The plastic thingee with the gas hole locator wire has to be put fully into the upper and the ejection gate closed BEFORE placing the upper in the plastic upper vise block. The plastic thing won't go in all the way with the ejection door clamped closed. Our friend here edited out correcting that mistake. I admit I haven't read all the comments, so someone may have covered this. Just make SURE the wire is all the way back BEFORE turning the barrel nut. It would be irritating to shear it off while turning the nut. Your mileage may vary with vise block set maker.

  8. This is probably a dumb torque wrench question, but if you set the wrench to 30lbs, torqued it and then torqued it again at 30lbs, do you now have 60lbs of torque on the nut? I'm just asking because when you're saying in the video that you're going up by 10lbs to get the holes lined up, I'm curious if you changed the wrench settings? Maybe this is an obvious answer, but I'm new to torquing and also AR builds so I want to get this right!

  9. oh one more question regarding the position of the torque wrench (which was a excellent thing to bring up!), what if you have the long handle version like a Tapco or Magpul, does the theory still apply? 90 degrees from the barrel nut wrench?

  10. when torquing the barrel nut on after 50ft lbs and its not lining up for the gas tube can you go in 5 ft lbs increments like 55, 60, 65, 70 and so on? or if i'm at 50 ft lbs and i have to go just a hair more can i just tweet it to get it to line up?

  11. BELT SANDER ! just a touch . especially since most all the rails hand guards are made in China where close is always good enough ! lol .

  12. I can't understand why when you reach the minimum torque you continue at increasing settings of torque (in this case 5 lb increments. Why not torque to the minimum (which I believe is 35 lb/ft) and if the gas tube doesn't line up simply advance until it does as long as not over maximum torque? It seems to me you are passing the point you need numerous times by arbitrarily increasing torque.

  13. this might be a dumb question, or an already known method, but is there any reason you couldn't torque the bolt to 30 lbs, then turn the torque wrench to 80 lbs. then have someone slowly apply pressure to the gas tube locator and as soon as it goes through, stop torquing? as long as it doesn't click while your doing it, you know your in the range, right?

  14. Thanks BC for a great video. I've scoured dozens of videos on AR builds to help me with my own. Your's is the best barrel assembly video I've seen to date. Also helpful hints with the grease.
    Keep up the good work.

  15. Do you coat the barrel extension with anything prior to inserting it into the upper receiver? I've seen a few videos where the host coasts it with Loctite. I was thinking grease would be better, like what you put on the threads of the upper, or is it just as well to insert it clean? Also, is lapping the upper receiver for increased accuracy usually unnecessary on a quality upper? Thanks.

  16. I seriously never comment on or give thumb ups (mostly because I am never signed in), but I had to make the effort for this video. GREAT JOB! This was the most straightforward, yet detailed vid I have seen (yet) on this "how to" topic. I really appreciate you taking the time to share and teach.

  17. For visual/numerical proof showing that D&G is correct about the 90* rotation to achieve the "actual" torque value you are looking for type : "How to use an crowfoot or extension adapter on a torque wrench WITHOUT MATH" in the search box. Shane Conley's video will end the debate.

  18. If the barrel nut doesn't line up at 30, 40, or any other torque setting you listed, why would you do all of those other things, even shaving off material from the receiver, rather than just hand turning the nut a tiny bit to line it up?

  19. The torque relationship is only correct if you are measuring force (in force units) applied at the end of the wrench and using arm length to calculate torque. if you have a torque wrench that measures torque (in torque units), it doesn't matter where wrench is attached. When the correct amount of torque is applied, the wrench will let you know. Newton's third law and Euler beam theory.

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